Dominique Derain and Julien Altaber. The master and the pupil. Hummm... the pupil ? Julien has surpassed the master according to Dom', proud of his foal to whom he passed on his domain with pride.

Anticonformist, winegrower with character, pioneer of biodynamic viticulture in Burgundy and star of Parisian bistros, Dominique Derain has seen and experienced it all. On the heights of Saint-Aubin, he has cultivated his biodynamic plots for over 20 years, with the greatest respect for nature and the soil. Although he intervened little in the winemaking process, he mastered it perfectly, producing wines with a strong personality that are sought after the world over.

"Pinot noir is a delicate grape variety, and it's important to preserve this delicacy. A great wine is one that has succeeded in preserving and expressing this delicacy, naturally, without the need for a lighthouse," explains Dominique. "Next, I like to see fruit, freshness, aromatics and a little substance. Finally, the wine must be balanced. A wine that's too heavy, too soft or too acidic, you soon get bored of it. A good wine is one you want to come back to again and again.

In 2019, Dom has decided to step back for a well-deserved rest. His spiritual son, the talented Julien Altaber, has taken over the estate with a masterful hand. Dominique had warned us: "Julien is a much better vivifier than I am!" We can't say for sure, but whatever the case, Julien Altaber and Carole Schwab now carry on his spirit with talent, respecting nature and the grape.

Never far away but officially in the background, the truculent Saint-Aubin winemaker, pope of biodynamics and free vinification, knows he can sleep soundly. Julien has become one of the most solid winemakers on the Côte de Beaune. Year after year, whether at Domaine Derain or at his Sextant negoce, he perpetuates tradition while adding his own personal touch.

The new vintage we welcome this week is no exception. The great 2023 whites are impressive in their depth and intensity, notably the magnificent Saint-Aubin 1er Cru. These are wines made for laying down and for high tasting! The reds are delicate. The fruit is crunchy, immediate and obvious.

Domaine Derain wines are sincere, straightforward, often gluggy but never simplistic. Straightforward, unrestrained expressions of Burgundy, far from rigid codes, but always with precision. You'll find cuvées from the great terroirs of the Côte de Beaune as well as micro-parcels vinified without inputs, bordering on the experimental - and that's what makes them so charming.